From A to B in Phnom Penh

Or what's the safest way to get around Phnom Penh. An opinionated piece in today's Phnom Penh Post.

If someone suggested to you that riding on the back of a stranger's motorbike without a helmet was an acceptable form of transportation in London, New York or Sydney, you would think they were crazy. So why is it considered acceptable in Phnom Penh?
Even if Phnom Penh didn't have one of the highest accident rates in the region; even if there were a head-injury unit in the city (the closest is in Bangkok); riding pillion without a helmet would still not be a sensible choice. The human head is simply too fragile to risk impact with the ground.

Firstly, the driver's trustworthiness and blood-alcohol level are unknown. Then, the motorbike itself is generally too underpowered to take a large foreigner at the speed of the traffic.
Foreigners also have an abiding urge to carry bags: handbags of immense size, daypacks, laptop cases, all manner of encumbrances that seem to be part of our lives. To a potential thief, they identify where all your good stuff is, and you've got lots. Did you ever see a Cambodian lady riding with more than a small clutch purse?

Then there is the helmet issue. The new law enforcing helmets is not being applied to pillion passengers on motorbikes. Why? Is it because there is a genuine lack of alternatives?

Tuk-tuks are safer and although they move slower through the traffic, which means that it's unlikely you'll ever be thrown across the ground in an accident.
In most cities in the region, such chariots are not allowed on the major city streets, as they block the flow of traffic. In Manila, you would cross the city in a jeepney or bus, transferring to motorbike-powered vehicle to get from the main road into your suburb or residential area.

There is also a new taxi company offering air-conditioned, metered service that actually works out cheaper than using a (negotiated) tuk-tuk.

If you call the hotline in English, they send a driver who speaks English. The flag-fall is 3,000 riels (US$0.72), the drivers know their way around, the taxis are spotlessly clean and there's no late-night surcharge. Their call centre is not currently up to taking bookings, so you have to call and wait 10 to 15 minutes, but the system is a great development for the city.
The next development has to be some kind of public transportation system, perhaps like Bangkok's system of buses and minivans on the main boulevards fed by subsystems [moto's! But with helmets.] in the residential and commercial areas.

Dismissing Phnom Penh as somehow different and claiming that the motorbike system is somehow fine because it's in place and it works is symptomatic of the thinking of foreign employees of what is loosely (and perhaps ironically) called the development industry.

Meanwhile, tourists and expats alike continue to take their lives in their hands, or rather put their lives in motorbike taxi-drivers' hands, and crossing their fingers while clutching their over-sized fake-Gucci handbags.

So what does Crossing Cambodia believe is the way to go?

Well, from the start I did try moto's out, but not only did I not feel safe, neither do these guys seem to know where you're going. Possibly by now I would be better able to direct the guys, but alas the safety issue. So I get around by tuk-tuk, it's a bit of drag when going far away or need to navigate Monivong, but take a book.

The taxi service is catching on, but it still requires ordering, you just can't flag them down on the street.

Great piece, let's hope it provokes some reaction. Other than 'the poor moto drivers ...'.

Chasing Cars, 1 March 2009

Followers (why has no-one registered Crossing Cambodia as to be followed?) of this blog may have been wondering what's happening. So have I!

To tell you the truth not much at all is happening. Being the first of March, one would have expected that the men in blue would have brought Phnom Penh under helmets by now, but that point is slowly slipping away. Crossing Cambodia estimates that helmet wearing has dropped from 80-90% to just 50-70%. This despite the more than usual coppers on the road trying to stop anyone vaguely offending some kind of rule. That's unless, like last Saturday, the offender was wearing an army cap (and no helmet). We're not going to stop him!

• But it's good to see something else pop up on the agenda. Once more. Now two years overdue.

  'National Police Chief Neth Savoeun has ordered police across the country to start punishing, as of May, any civilians or low-ranking police or army officers whose vehicles bear police or military licence plates.
  ...
  The crackdown would also apply to vehicles with no plates at all, he added'.

  Wish them luck. But as it is 2 weeks later, nothing to be seen! '

  She [Mu Sochua, opposition spokesperson] said an earnest effort to enforce the law, not more stern words about it, was needed. She added that a real crackdown on illegally procured plates was "beyond" the National Police chief, given how pervasive the practice has become'.

  Nearly everything is pervasive in Cambodia.

• Next up were

  'the motorbikes pulling overloaded trailers'

  The reason:

  '"We do not allow big motorbikes to tow trailers into the city because it causes traffic jams and makes the city look messy and disorderly," said Chav Hak, deputy chief of the Phnom Penh Municipal Traffic Police'.

  Subjectivity at it's best. Put more bluntly, these guys are so unpowerful we can easily cash in on them! An offender:
  

  "We have spent more than 30,000 riels ($7.27) at police checkpoints along the national road from Kampong Speu to Phnom Penh," he said. "Look at the police. They are not skinny. We work hard, but we are still very skinny."

• Odd for a city where taxi's are nowhere to be found. Phnom Penh is mentioned in a list of cities where to avoid taxi's. That can't be too difficult then!
  

  'Therefore, we recommend making alternative travel arrangements in the following areas!'

  First in a unlisted list is Phnom Penh:

  'Phnom Penh is a friendly [compared to what?] and laid back tourist destination, but hailing a taxi is an experience you won’t particularly enjoy [because there are none?]. You won’t have as much trouble getting a taxi as you will getting rid of your driver once you reach your destination. Many drivers insist on becoming your personal tour guide, of course collecting fares for each destination they deliver you to along the way. Before you head to Cambodia ask your travel agent to recommend a few good transportation companies or you might want to try a rickshaw. You can easily hire a driver for an entire day for a minimal cost and without the scary stalker experience'.

  Load of ****. My own list would most certainly include Kuala Lumpur where the taxi-folk are 50/50 aforementioned word. Impolite, rude, greedy and simply obnoxious quite a few are the rotten apples there. Elsewhere? Bali, Singapore, Bangkok, Vientiane, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh, Chiang Mai are all ok, Kathmandu might be slightly iffy.

• Competition on the horizon? A 27 year old male propably working for Handicap Internbational has set up his own blog. And publishes statistics and the odd (uncited) article from the news concerning traffic safety in Cambodia. Looks pretty boring as there is no personal touch. And plays it safe! Ha! What's wrong with criticizing the Cambo officials?

• From the SE Globe:

  'Let’s be blunt. Phnom Penh isn't friendly to pedestrians. SUVs roar down potholed streets, horns screaming as pedestrians and motos scurry for cover. These “connected” drivers don’t need licence plates and the police don’t seem to car'.

  A nice readable article, a bit utopian here and there, but if one can't dream, what then?

  'Traffic engineers refer to three “Es”: engineering, education and enforcement. Engineering has been discussed, but education and enforcement remain. That’s why the government works with groups such as HIB. It has given the police 100 global positioning system (GPS) detectors so they can gather data about traffic accident trends. By mapping them, they can see the most dangerous zones for pedestrians and vehicles, said Sem Panhavuth of HIB. It’s a small step in the right direction. Pedestrian safety is paramount in a city that aspires to a higher world ranking than given it by National Geographic magazine and values its tourist industry. One conspicuous sign of prosperity is not traffic density but the recognition that grace and architectural beauty are better seen at walking pace'.

Chasing Cars, 10 February 2008

Despite heavy presence of police on Phnom Penh's roads, helmet wearing seems to be going out of vogue. Crossing Cambodia's own observations are close to 80%, 10% down off January's figures.

• Has everybody noticed how stories are all cut and pasted from the Phnom Penh Post nowadays? This much to the detriment of Cambodia Daily which also seems out of vogue as a source of news.
  On the Khmer 440 forum site they simply snap and paste a photo of a Cambodia Daily article.

  'Singers Daughter accused in Hit and Run'

  Quite a unique case, as nearly always the culprit escapes, let alone is pursued and shot at by police and brought to justice. Result: culprit must pay and is leaned on by law and justice authorities. Also check out the comments added on the forum, seems like the traffic police are busy ...

• More from the same forum, this time on parking agents or are they security guards?
  Every respecting business in Phnom Penh retains the right to use the sidewalk in front of the business as private parking area, even CC's hairdresser! Donned out in an official looking uniform they assist parking the vehicles and expect a bit of tea money when you leave. But how much? All the answers in this thread.

• Phnom Penh is to get it's first flyover near the Monivong bridge, where the flyover will ensure that the PM can pass the snarled up traffic en route to his office. Funny thing is that the drawings seem to indicate that certain traffic (east from Monivong to north Norodom) will not be allowed anymore. Let's just see how this works out. The municipality are already looking into the feasibility of another 'sky bridge' as they say.

• Letters to the Phnom Penh Post Editor:

  'Driving on Phnom Penh's roads is quite confusing. This does not mean there are no road signs, traffic lights or police instructions. It means that road users do not respect one another's rights - most usually compete with each other for space on the roads.
  Car and motorbike drivers are the two dominant competitors. It is common to see them using the wrong lanes. They cross each other's lanes and never care about their position on the road, meaning motorbikes are in car lanes and vice versa. But the worst case is when cars and motorbikes take over pedestrian routes. This causes confusion among pedestrians and drivers, and accidents are usually caused due to disrespect for the rights of pedestrians.
  Cyclists and pedestrians are the losers in this road competition often because cyclists do not have their own lanes. They usually use the same routes as their fellow motorbike or car drivers. This has created an environment in which riding a bicycle is difficult and dangerous, and for pedestrians it is even harder. They are often forced to walk on streets where traffic is heavy. Drivers blow their horns at them to move out of the way, but sometimes they are hit.
  Pedestrian paths are stolen by house and shop owners along our roads. These owners usually block the pedestrian's path with their personal business, such as their parked vehicles or expanded shopfront. Sometimes they even claim the road in front of their houses as their own property, banning everyone from parking vehicles.
  As long as people compete for road space and continue to disrespect traffic laws, we will all be losers. Clearly, no one benefits when faced with traffic accidents.
  People need to know their rights on the road, but if they don't then the authorities need to step in. The recent helmet safety campaign is a good example of intervention by the authorities.
  Meas Bunly, Phnom Penh'.

  A good example, but will they follow through?

• And more compliments to Phnom Penh authorities:

  'Dear Editor,
  I totally agree with Matthew Robinson (The Phnom Penh Post, Letters to the Editor, January 22) about the removal of the chairs and tables from the riverside - Sisowath Quay.
  Whose bright idea was this? Much of the charm has disappeared and I suspect many people, including me, will go for an outdoor drink or bite to eat in another area where we are not forced to sit indoors now at some of our favorite spots.
  All those beautiful palm trees in front of the Bougainvillier Hotel gone, as well as easy access to many menus. Now you have to go inside to look at most of them.
  Have the police been around to check on the cars parked right across one's path, or seen the many motos that now fill the spaces left vacant by street sellers? This morning I even saw a tuk-tuk parked on the sidewalk. Nice change!
  Michael Sharpe, Phnom Penh'.

• Stan Kahn reports on a section of Highway 3:

  'Kamchey Dam, being built by a Chinese company upriver from Kampot on the edge of Bokor Park, is proceeding apace along with the destruction of most of the road to Teuk Chou rapids and sizable chunks of National Highway 3. The culprit is the use of very heavy trucks for construction materials. It’s too bad they couldn’t find the rock fill they need closer because a good 20 kms of road is under attack'.

  Beware!

• In Vientiane, Lao they have also problems with parking, the Vientiane Times reports. But they also have solutions:

  'Several car parks are under construction in Vientiane and when completed will go some way towards addressing the parking problem in the city'.

  They also acknowledge that there is still some way to go:

  'However, a major challenge is that vehicle owners ignore allocated parking areas because they don't want to walk any distance to reach their destination'.

  Lazy!
  

• Fining cars is illegal?

  'Cars carrying more than the legal limit of five passengers are being fined at checkpoints in Battambang province, which drivers claim is illegal'.

  If something is illegal then fining the culprits is um .... fine?
  Not so apparently according to this Phnom Penh Post.

  'Prime Minister Hun Sen had ordered checkpoints in the provinces be shut down'.

  The police claim they are right, however
  

  'Hun Sen last week threatened to sack any governors or officials whose provinces have illegal checkpoints'.

  One plus one is not two?

• Finally a couple of pics Crossing Cambodia received via email. Crap happens, luckily Cambodia's emergency services are out in force. Drive safely!